Located near Denver's Union Station, this acclaimed wood-fired chophouse operated from 2017 to 2024, celebrated for its in-house dry-aging program and live-fire hearth.
Citizen Rail opened in August 2017 as the flagship restaurant of the newly built Kimpton Hotel Born, located adjacent to Denver's historic Union Station. Designed as a modern, wood-fired chophouse, the restaurant was conceptualized by executive chef Christian Graves, who spent nearly two decades with the Kimpton group. The space was anchored by a custom-built, twin-grill wood-fired hearth that burned a deliberate rotation of native white oak, mesquite, hickory, and fruitwoods like cherry and apple. This live-fire kitchen was fully open, allowing diners to watch cooks manage the embers from a dedicated chef's counter. The interior design featured low, amber lighting, dark leather booths, reclaimed wood accents, and polished tile, establishing a warm, tactile refuge from the sleek glass and steel of the surrounding LoDo neighborhood.
The culinary program at Citizen Rail centered on a rigorous in-house butchery and preservation program. Visible through a glass display near the entrance, a dedicated dry-aging room showcased cuts of Colorado beef, heritage pork, and wild game developing deep flavors over several weeks. Chef Graves, and later executive chef Jared Becker, treated wood fire as a precise ingredient, utilizing different woods for specific profiles: oak and fruitwood for delicate fish and vegetables, and mesquite and hickory for hearty meats. Signature dishes included a 30-day dry-aged ribeye, coal-roasted carrots, smoked short ribs with black garlic miso demiglaze, and wood-fired oysters bathed in smoked butter. The bar program mirrored this elemental approach, utilizing charred citrus, smoked syrups, and an extensive selection of Colorado whiskeys to craft cocktails like the signature smoked old fashioned, which was finished with house-charred oak chips.
In May 2023, Aspen One acquired the Hotel Born, rebranding the property as the Limelight Denver. While Citizen Rail initially continued operations under the new ownership, the restaurant officially closed its doors on June 29, 2024, marking the end of its seven-year run as a cornerstone of the Union Station dining scene. In August 2024, the space reopened as Ajax Downtown, a sister concept to Aspen's historic Ajax Tavern. Although the name and branding changed to an American brasserie concept, much of the culinary team, including Chef Becker, director of food and beverage Jennifer Lordan, and lead bartender Matthew Gotlin-Sheehan, remained to guide the transition, ensuring that live-fire cooking and locally sourced Rocky Mountain ingredients remained central to the venue's identity.
Though Citizen Rail closed in 2024, its legacy of live-fire cooking lives on in the same space at Ajax Downtown. You can still sit at the open kitchen's counter to watch the chefs work the custom Josper grills, which replaced the original wood-fired hearth during the restaurant's transition.
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